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Prepper Menu Below:

Page 1 – This page – Storing in Mylar bags
Page 2 – Water Water and Water wells
Page 3 – Seeds, Seeds Wonderful Seeds
Page 4 – Food, Food Wonderful Food
Page 5 – 6, 7, 8, etc., etc., etc and so on 

Long Term Food Storage

All preppers should have a long-term food supply. Now is the time to gradually build a supply of food that will last a long time and that you can use to stay alive. Most all long-term food storage can last 30 years or more when properly packaged and stored in a cool, dry place. These products can be purchased ready to go.

Below are some items you can store for the long term in mylar bags:

Food Type and Storage life in years
Wheat 30+
White rice 30+
Corn 30+
Sugar 30+
Pinto beans 30
Rolled oats 30
Pasta 30
Potato flakes 30
Apple slices 30
Non-fat powdered milk 20
Dehydrated carrots 20 Dry products that are not suitable for longer-term storage due to moisture content, oils, or other concerns include:
Barley, pearled, Meat, dried (such as jerky), Eggs, dried, Nuts, Flour such as whole wheat
Rice, brown, Grains, milled (other than rolled oats), Sugar, brown, Granola and Vegetables and fruits, dehydrated (unless dry enough, inside and out, to snap when bent)

Oxygen absorbers protect dry foods from insect damage and help preserve product quality when they are used with dry food items and packaged in mylar sealed bags.

Oxygen absorbers contain an iron powder. When exposed to air, oxidize and the oxidation removes oxygen and moisture from the food. This then leaves the sealed bag with a nitrogen atmosphere which kills bugs and does not harm the food.

As we said previously using mylar bags and oxygen absorbers to store LONG TERM food is a great prepping skill.

This is how I seal them. First I would be in trouble if I used my wife’s good iron! That’s as bad as using her really expensive scissors to cut paper or other hard materials!

When you are ready to seal up those mylar bags for long-term storage, you need to think ahead especially if you are doing many bags or pouches of food. I like the 1-gallon size as I later store them in 5-gallon buckets with a screw off top so I can remove one of the one-gallon sealed mylar bags when I need them.

First, get out what you will be storing. This could just be one item or more. Open up the mylar bag and using a scoop of your choice fill each bag. Remember that you must leave enough of the top of the bag unfilled to seal it.

Again, remember that you need to leave a few inches of headspace at the top of the bag. If it is too full you will have problems handling and sealing the mylar bags. When all the bags are ready, you will have created an assembly line of filled bags. You are now ready to pop in an oxygen absorber and start sealing.

Place the oxygen absorber down into the food being stored. Normally a one-gallon bag will need a 300 cc O2 absorber and if you are using larger bags like five-gallon ones you will need a 2,000 cc size or use multiple 300 cc absorbers.

Note I like the smaller one-gallon sizes because if you open a five-gallon one, you must be ready to use it as it is now opened and has a limited shelf life. The remaining one-gallon bags will continue on in their 20+ year storage life.

I like to use a common clothing iron on high heat. Just make sure that the surface you will be sealing on is a heatproof surface. Some people like to use a hair straightening iron which is easier to use. Just make sure that there is enough heat to melt and seal the plastic that is sandwiched between the mylar. One of the things I have used is to place a flat metal strip across a five-gallon bucked. The top of the bag is placed on the strip and the filled part is allowed to hang into the bucket. How and where you seal be careful and do not burn yourself. Might want to use gloves! Some people like to partially seal the top of the mylar pouch and then push out any remaining air from the pouch and then finish sealing (a good idea).

In a day or less, your mylar bag or pouch should start to suck in and compact and feel brick-like. If this does not happen your seal may be defective and you will have to start over.

The Author likes to store his mylar bags or pouches in a five-gallon bucket with a Gamma-Lid top. This protects your sealed bags from rodents and makes them easy to get to. Remember to label the bags and the buckets with a felt tip pen. Some people store the bags in inexpensive plastic totes which will work just fine. I like the food-grade buckets because they are easy to move as they have a handle.

I have used the LDS bags and absorbers and these folks are serious about food storage and their quality is first class. You will have to log in to order. Highly recommended.

Gamma-Seal Bucket Lids Here
Larger quantities HERE

Note: Don’t get your knickers in a knot!. Gamma seal bucket lids are not normally used to completely seal the bucket. While they do this to some degree, they’re mostly for convenience in getting into your wonderful sealed mylar food storge. You SHOULD always store your long-term food in a dry environment and away from any dampness or excessive heat.

Prepping is hard work, especially off-grid prepping. If you will be storing wheat (berries) to later grind into flour, then you will need a grain mill, and here is where the problem starts. Grinding any large amount of flour takes a long time with a hand-powered grinder. Also, there are really expensive and there is a lot of garbage out there that just fails with heavy use. Below are a couple of solutions, one is a grid-up, and the other is for a grid-down (hand-powered) one. I bake bread all the time, and I use three cups of flour per loaf. That is a bunch of grinding. This brings up the question of how do you bake a loaf of bread off-grid? Answer a Cast Iron Dutch Oven. More later.

As a Scout Master, I cooked many delicious meals using an old cast iron Dutch Oven. From bread to complete meals were cooked in these amazing things. To bake bread, just heat up in a bed of coals (I put some on top as well) and when the oven gets to around 400° F, place the bread in the oven. Check it around 20 minutes after inserting. Bread recipe – three cups of flour, 1 and1/2 cups of warm water, and 1 tsp of yeast. Combine water, yeast, and flour into a nice ball, add more flour or a bit of water if needed. The dough should not be very sticky and easily formed by hand. Put in a baking pan and let rise for five hours or so. Insert in heated Dutch Oven and enjoy.

OH NO, my Dutch oven rusted – Well Duhh – Cast iron does rust and needs to be cured. Just oil down with a bit of cooking oil and place in the oven for an hour at 300°.



OK, thats all for this blog. I will be back with more pages of prepping advice and prepping tools and survival products. Come back often. To go to the next page when available go to the menu at the top of this page. Hope you enjoyed this one. Dennis in Central Texas

© The Grand Solar Minimum Prepper 2022